I agree with you completely. Suited connectors can definitely be good in multi-way pots because they often become very good drawing hands (and multi-way pots usually provide a lot of value for draws). But I like playing them more aggressively in heads up or handed pots because they are well-disguised. When 3-betting, they often can represent big hands....but also can trick people into winning big pots because others think you have a big cards. I think the older train of thought is that suited connectors are multi-way hands only....but I think that the newer school of players would typically agree with what your line of thought.

Like what you had to say except for the straight draws usually being good. 8 ♦ 9 ♦ & 9 ♠ 10 ♠ can be a little tricky if you're on the low end so I'm a little cautious with those. You can run right into hands like A ♥ K ♣ or K ♦ Q ♠ .

There's a lot of situational stuff here too. Can you get away with raising out of position against the table? Will you risk getting re-raised and so on?

To me it's still a positional thing. I love playing these (especially the 1-gappers, they mess people up) but not in early position. You try it and all that ends up happening is that you have to call a re-raise and a decent player will know you're on something weak unless you have the marbles to four-bet. Best to wait until you're in the right spot to do it unless the rest of the table allows you to get away with it.

@BlahBlahBlah oh yea, position is always a big factor. Totally agree.

Well, like everything in poker, playing suited connectors depends on many other factors. Of course, if you can outplay your opponent, can get away from them at the right time, and exploit your opponent's mistakes adeptly, then any two cards can be played. But in the long run, if you play suited connectors heads up I think you're generally making a mistake. It's not true that you'd generally rather play a low flush draw heads up -- since the money you'll tend to win will generally not be worth the many times you'll be drawing to it and miss. That being said, since no limit, especially with relatively deep stacks, is so much a game of playing the player, it's impossible to conclude that playing any cards is generally a mistake -- if you are an expert playing against a deeply stacked fish whom you can dominate. When that's the case, because your implied odds are so enormous, you can justify playing any two cards.

You have to know what the plan is with them. I primarily play them for straights and with the hopes I can nail some goofy flush with them. Let's say you have 7 ♥ 8 ♥ . If you get a flop like 4 ♥ Q ♥ 2 ♣ , someone could be drawing to that heart flush right along with you. So you can't necessarily drive the pot on a flop like that just because two hearts hit. That's why I like what Blah said about still playing in position with them. Unless you have some sort of connection to that straight, you need to keep that pot small or someone in position holding something like A ♥ J ♥ could bury you.

I'm not big on the multi-way pot theory on this. Do you really want a four-way pot with 7-6 suited? Not me. More players means more hands that could clip me. No choice in a limit game but in NL I want to isolate and make my decision easier. Don't outthink the room.

@peteywarren @LazerTron2 - Agree with both of you. The reverse implied odds multi-way on small suited connectors are a b*tch. The reality is that a relatively high percentage of the big pots you play with small suited connectors are going to be pots where someone else was drawing to a nut flush. Unless you're really good at getting away from those (while not mucking your winners too), that'll eat your equity on playing these hands multi-way very quickly.

At what level are we talking about here? Opportunities will present themselves in low stakes,that higher grade players will eradicate in anything above $2/5 NLH

Depending upon table position, I usually try to place a minimal bet to get to the flop. But if the bet is already high, a low connector is not a good spot to risk that size bet. Seeing flops is the key. The more times you can get to a flop with minimal betting, the better!

I think the multi way pot theory is better applied in limit poker than no limit. In my experience playing no limit (from 2/5 to 10/25) trying to get in multi way pots with suited connectors has been a recipe for disaster. Countless straight v straight wherenive been on the bad end as well as flush v flush. I think isolating and trying to play heads up or three way pots is the best way to go. Obv everything is situational but I'm just speaking in a vacuum. Initiative is important because you can rep hands that you don't have and also when you mKe straights and flushes they are usually disguised.